As it is just a bar and a barbershop away from the Puerto Rican haunt El Bohio, Aloha Kitchen, a tiny Hawaiian joint helmed by a gaggle of cheerful, brisk waitresses, helps elevate the strip mall down the street from Fort Sam from a cluster of commercial property to a bona fide dining destination. Where else in the city can you find Ropa Viejo and Lua Lua within walking distance?
For the sake of tradition, start your meal with the Spam musubi ($2.99), that might as easily be called sodium three ways. With a little furikake sprinkled on top to numb the metallic saltiness, the playful take on sushi becomes an umami payload; before then, though, and to an extent still after, the sushi rice, Spam, and nori make for a salty trifecta, and perhaps one best tried for the sake of novelty and then shelved.
With your appetite whetted, Aloha’s midday plates offer a well-rounded meal for an economic eater. Go with the Draggin’ Meat ($9.99), and you can expect a gristlier iteration of pork bulgogi lacquered in such an umber, viscous teriyaki sauce as to make it indistinguishable from a Mexican mole. Or, for a dish that caused me to do a mental record scratch, inducing the fluttering eyelids and cocked-back head of genuine astonishment, try the Huli Huli chicken ($7.99), the kitchen’s version of chicken teriyaki. As my family lives in Seattle, I have likely had chicken teriyaki more than 50 times in my life, and the version Aloha Kitchen offers may be one of the best. Chargrilled but soft as a flower petal, the chicken was as moist as watermelon and as toothsome as rib eye. Maybe I just got an exceptionally tender, complex portion, but the Huli Huli seems to really be something special.
1151 Harry Wurzbach Road, (210) 822-9933.
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