“After six years in business, the Besh Restaurant Group has decided to close Lüke San Antonio. Our last day of service will be February 28th. We are grateful for the ways in which the community has embraced and immensely supported the restaurant since it opened in 2011.”
From spoiled oysters to amateur service to a menu that’s overpriced and under-executed, Lüke has lost much of what made its graceful union of antebellum parlor and boozy dancehall bar so charming in the first place.
Ordered raw, they tasted like the inside of a basketball shoe, both spoiled and despoiled with shell fragments from the shucker’s knife. The shells of charbroiled oysters bristled with parasitic mollusks whose blackened edges flaked off when handled. This isn’t dollar oyster night at a dive bar. This is Lüke, where a half-dozen sets you back $14 to $16. There’s no excuse for that kind of sloppiness.
But the balance of my Lüke experience fell squarely in the languid execution zone favored by more modest hotel restaurants. An iron dish of shrimp and grits came to the table half-cool, with big flowery spices and overcooked shrimp for $27, and the modest textural contrasts and flatline flavor of a fried oyster salad with lardons and avocado didn’t support its $16 price.Ouch.
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