With a Third Store, Bedoy’s Bakery is More Culturally Relevant Than Ever

by

comment
JESSICA ELIZARRARAS
  • Jessica Elizarraras
The interiors are warm and inviting at the newest location of Bedoy’s Bakery on Hillcrest, which doesn’t need excessive signage. Inside the cozy panaderia, which is celebrating its 57th anniversary this year, photos of the founders hang at the entryway as Juan Gabriel’s biggest hits waft to the front from the kitchen. And though it’s a San Antonio staple, Bedoy’s Bakery is still introducing newcomers to the world of pan dulce.

First opened in 1961 off 24th Street by Manuel Bedoy and wife Emma Castillo, who he met while working at her father’s bakery, Bedoy’s Bakery is now three generations deep. Xavier Bedoy and wife Patricia, along with son Jameson and a small group of employees, keep the panaderias filled with area favorites.

“We make memories one pan dulce at a time,” Patricia said.

The latest location comes four years after the Bedoy family opened a second off Cupples Road. At just over 2,000 square feet, the Hillcrest location features a slightly more polished look than it’s predecessors off Hildebrand and Cupples, while still offering a familiar feel. And yes, there’s barbacoa and menudo available on weekends.

“A lot of the people who live here in this neighborhood, grew up with the original bakery off 24th St.,” Patricia said.
JESSICA ELIZARRARAS
  • Jessica Elizarraras
Though you’ll find conchas, orejas, marranitos, powdery wedding cookies and more, Patricia says Jameson, a die-hard fan of the Food Network, is slowly adding contemporary items to the company’s lineup.

That includes kolaches following a trial period at Cupples, the location Jameson helms. Soon came scones and doughnuts (a chocolate-meets-bacon number is a favorite), along with sugar cookies decorated with Selena album covers, Dia de los Muertos sugar skulls, Friday Kahlo, guitars, and Spurs Coyotes by Patricia.

“My husband was reluctant to bring the new products into the panaderia, but once he tasted it and saw how people were asking for the product … so as long as it sells,” Patricia said.

For those few who trickle in asking for cupcakes or puff pastry, the family finds a way to convert their new visitors who might not be familiar with the 2,000-plus varieties of pan dulce.

“We want to attract the new generation,” Patricia said, “sometimes it happens that the pan de huevo just came out of the oven so I’ll cut them off a little piece.”

That “new generation” is also enjoying Bedoy’s pan dulce at Hemisfair’s Yanaguana Garden, albeit in a radically different way, as colorful conchas are used by the staff at Con Safos Cocina y Cantina to complete their popular pan dulce burger.

And a newer generation still is already primed to takeover in the future — the Bedoy’s 8-year-old granddaughter Jamie, Jameson’s daughter.

“She’s a good decorator and she loves the bakery,” Patricia said.

Multiple locations, bedoysbakery.com.

So many restaurants, so little time. Find out the latest San Antonio dining news with our Flavor Friday Newsletter.