Marveling over a feast at Alex Paredes’s counter-service restaurant on the South Side of San Antonio brought to mind Japan’s concept of shokunin, or absorption and virtuosity in one’s profession. Paredes is master of carnitas. He slow-cooks them for hours until the ropy, near-greaseless hunks of pork reveal a gamut of textures in every bite: crisp, supple, lacy, chewy. His staff fashions corn tortillas by hand with exactly the right heft to handle the carnitas, which are the breadth of the Lonja experience. Order sides of guacamole and chorizo (for yet more texture) alongside the complimentary red and green salsas.Yum! Make time for a visit to feast under their shady picnic tables.
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