Food & Drink » Food & Drink Etc.

Amuse-BOUCHE

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Whenever I’m out of San Antonio for a while, I get to missing the 410 Diner on Broadway, just inside Loop 410. So, coming back from a month in Greece and more moussaka and octopi than a man should eat, we headed for the 410. Around since the early 1980s, and a gas station in a previous incarnation, the 410 looks its age, with photos and posters of Elvis and Marilyn Monroe, plus vintage ads for staples: eggsat 25 cents a dozen.

The food, made on premises in a hectic kitchen visible behind the counter seats, is definitely not gourmet fare. The menu features lots of “mom” meals — meatloaf, fried chicken, pork chops, and fried seafood. I usually have calves’ liver with grilled onions and bacon, plus spinach or okra and yams. Don’t miss the homemade sweet cornbread (regulars often take a few slabs to go). My companion had the large breaded shrimp and didn’t offer a one!

The 410 has a full liquor license, but this is not a drinking crowd. Most meals are under $10, and on Tuesdayevenings everyone gets $2 off. Service can be a tad erratic when things are busy, but waiters are cheerful about repairing misfilled orders. Hey, it’s a diner!

— Richard Teitz


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