Winner: La Panaderia

Multiple locations

lapanaderia.com

When La Panaderia hit town a few years back, at an upper Broadway location not normally a hotbed of Mexican pan dulce, the Cáceres brothers, David and José, made waves with their eye-catching (and admittedly French-influenced by way of Mexico City) offerings. Many exhibited a size and perfection not normally found in traditional panaderias/pastelerias hereabouts. But better marketing (and, likely, financing) didn't mean relaxed, traditional standards. The addition of a roster of sandwiches such as chicken Milanesa with cilantro mayo on a variety of traditional breads didn't hurt. Nor did the availability of egg-centric breakfasts and big-bowl salads. The brothers later expanded to Houston Street downtown where lunchtime lines testify to the allure of black bean soup and La Hawaiana with sliced pork chop and grilled pineapple — a sandwich that, but for Swiss cheese, might actually recall a taco al pastor. Most breads, though, are thoroughly in the familiar camp with flavors such as sourdough, cranberry and rye. Get there early if you're looking for a loaf, and even the pastries are looking a little slim by 1 or so.

2. Mi Tierra Cafe y Panaderia

218 Produce Row

(210) 239-9215

mitierracafe.com

3. Panifico Bake Shop

602 NW 24th St.

(210) 434-9290

panifico.com