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Chisme Y Chicle


A tenuous culinary and geographic equilibrium of sorts is being maintained by two recent restaurant events: Biga’s Bruce Auden’s plans to open a casual place in the snooty Sonterra ’hood, and Jean-Francois Poujol’s downtown opening of Le Midi, a spin on his suburban Soleil Bistro & Wine Bar.  

Auden’s Kitchen will take the place of Tresca, a cousin to Luca whose former space at the  Fairmount is now being claimed by Jason Dady `see Chisme y Chicle, September 30`. The menu is said to be “everyday food with wine and beer … the way Bruce cooks at home.” With his name on the door, we imagine him to be in the kitchen, too. It’s scheduled to open early 2010.

Poujol has already opened Le Midi in the space formerly occupied by Yokonyu at Houston and Navarro. The awnings should be up by now; the menu has been in place for a couple of weeks. At a “dry run” dinner we liked a frisée au lardon with poached egg, snapper a la tapenade and more. We’d consider dropping the too-stereotypical onion soup, but the rest of chef Nicolas Lebas’s menu is Midi almost to the max. Think powder-dry rosés and power-packed pastis