Sina Restaurant

If skewered meats and shimmying midriffs are your idea of a Persian (or Greek or Turkish ... ) dining experience, then you've come to the right place. And to the wrong one. For though the Friday night belly dancer could bounce with the best of them, and the shish-kabobs of tender beef left little to be desired, to stop there would be to miss the point of Sina, a stylish place with much more on its plate than baubles, bangles, and browned bits of beef. Sina replaces a previous Persian restaurant in the same location, one that had a Middle Eastern grocery store attached. Our attentive and sartorially spiffy waiter claimed there was no connection between the two, and we'll have to believe him, but the menu is inevitably similar, and the meal did start out in the same, traditional way with a refreshing, palate-perking plate of parsley, scallions, radishes, feta, and flatbread.;- Ron Bechtol